"Only a few decades ago, here at the south-west corner of Mayo, wild Atlantic Salmon Salmo salar was actually cheaper than the farmed sort. By this time in autumn, we would have half-a-dozen big local fish in the freezer, delicious until spring. As their numbers have declined, and catches have yirlded to conservation, the wild fish has become a properly expensive delicacy, as salmon farms grow bigger and covet more of the sea."