Scottish smoked salmon has an aura of genteel luxury, a hangover from a bygone age when this delicacy was a product of wild Atlantic Salmon Salmo salar, a magnificent fish once abundant in our coastal waters and rivers. Today, you can buy juicy pink Scottish salmon fillets in most British supermarkets, thinly sliced and attractivekly packaged, perhaps with a little picture of Highland mountains and lochs, conveying an impression of a natural product from a pristine environment. Or so the producers would like us to think.